Surkanda Devi Temple: The Hilltop Shakti Peeth above Dhanaulti

Surkanda Devi stands on a summit of about 2,750 metres between Dhanaulti and Chamba, the highest point for some distance around, and on a clear day its courtyard looks out over a long line of Himalayan snow peaks with the Doon valley on the other side. It is one of the Shakti Peethas, a goddess temple of the Garhwal hills, and with Dhanaulti makes the best day trip from Mussoorie.

The temple and its story

By the story told here, when Shiva carried the body of Sati across the land, her head fell on this hill: the name is said to come from "Sirkhanda". The goddess is worshipped as a form of Durga. The temple is busiest during Navratri and on Ganga Dussehra in early summer, when a fair is held on the hilltop and villages from around the ridge come up to it.

Getting there

The road ends at Kaddukhal, a small roadside village on the Mussoorie–Chamba road. From there you can take the ropeway to near the top, when it is in service, or walk the paved path of about 2 km. The walk is steep and takes 45 minutes to an hour and a half; ponies are sometimes available. Elders and anyone with a heart or breathing condition should use the ropeway, and ask about its timings in Kaddukhal.

When to go

October and November and March to June have the clearest mountain views. In winter the hilltop is very cold and often under snow, which makes the walk slippery but the view spectacular; the road through Dhanaulti can jam on snowy weekends. During the monsoon the summit is usually in cloud. Go in the morning, before the clouds build up and before the day-trip traffic.

A day trip from Mussoorie

Leave Mussoorie early and drive out past Landour to Dhanaulti for breakfast. Continue to Kaddukhal for Surkanda Devi in the late morning, when the view is still clear. On the way back, stop at Dhanaulti's Eco Park among the deodars and be in Mussoorie by late afternoon. With snow on the ground, allow much more time; our snowfall in Uttarakhand guide covers the winter roads.

What to carry

• A warm layer at any time of year; the summit is windy and much colder than Mussoorie.
• Shoes with a good grip for the walk, especially after rain or snow.
• Water and a light snack; there are tea stalls at Kaddukhal.
• Cash for offerings and the ropeway.

Where to stay

Dhanaulti has a few small hotels and camps, but most visitors base themselves in Mussoorie, with the widest choice of rooms and an easy morning drive to Kaddukhal; see also our Mussoorie weekend guide. From Dehradun, Surkanda Devi is a full day out and back.