Temples in Mussoorie: Jwala Devi, Nag Devta, Bhadraj and Surkanda Devi

Mussoorie is better known for Mall Road and the views than for its temples, but the hills around the town carry several old shrines, and each one sits on a ridge or summit with a view worth the climb. None of them is in the bazaar itself: you drive out along the ridge and finish on foot. That makes a temple morning a good counterweight to a day on the Mall, and it is the quietest way to see the hills Mussoorie stands on.

Temples in and around Mussoorie, at a glance

Jwala Devi on Benog Hill

The best known of the temples near the town is Jwala Devi, or Jwalaji, on top of Benog Hill at roughly 2,240 metres, about nine kilometres west of Mussoorie past the Library end and the road towards Cloud End. The goddess is worshipped here as a form of Durga, and the shrine is a simple hilltop temple in oak and rhododendron forest, the old Benog sanctuary. The road takes you close; the last stretch, about two kilometres, is on foot through the trees. On a clear morning you see the Aglar valley on one side and the snow peaks beyond. Go early, carry water and expect birdsong rather than crowds outside the Navratris.

Nag Devta on Cart Mackenzie Road

The Nag Devta temple is the easiest to reach: it stands on Cart Mackenzie Road, the road that runs down from the town towards Dehradun, and you can drive to the gate. It is an old temple to the serpent god, rebuilt over the years, and it is the one locals stop at on the way up or down the hill. The terrace looks out over the Doon valley, so it works well at dusk, when the lights of Dehradun come on below. Nag Panchami, in the monsoon, is its busiest day.

Bhadraj, the ridge temple of Balbhadra

Bhadraj is a temple to Balbhadra, Balram, the elder brother of Krishna, on a high ridge to the west of Mussoorie beyond Benog. It is the farthest of the four and the only one that needs a proper hike, which is why many visitors do it as a half-day or full-day walk rather than a quick darshan. The hilltop looks over the Doon valley to the south and the Jaunsar hills and the Yamuna side to the north. The temple's fair, held every year in August, brings villagers from across the ridge. Routes and road heads change after the monsoon, so ask your hotel which way up is in use before you set out, and do not attempt it in cloud or rain.

Surkanda Devi, the Shakti Peeth near Mussoorie

When people search for a Shakti Peeth in Mussoorie, the temple they mean is Surkanda Devi. It is not in Mussoorie but about 33 km east on the Chamba road, above the village of Kaddukhal, at around 2,750 metres. By the story told here, Sati's head fell on this hill. A ropeway climbs to near the top when it is in service; otherwise it is a steep paved path of about two kilometres. With Dhanaulti on the way it is the best day trip from Mussoorie, and our Surkanda Devi guide covers the ropeway, the walk and the fair on Ganga Dussehra.

A temple day from Mussoorie

Two plans work well. For a short morning, drive out to Benog for Jwala Devi and come back by Cloud End, then stop at Nag Devta on the way down the hill in the evening. For a full day, go east instead: leave early for Surkanda Devi, have lunch in Dhanaulti and be back in Mussoorie by dusk. Keep Bhadraj for a separate day if you like hill walking. In winter, check the roads after any snowfall; the Dhanaulti road and the paths to the hilltops are the first to ice over.

What to keep in mind

Wear shoes with grip, because the hilltop paths are steep and can be slippery in the morning. Carry a light jacket even in summer, since the summits are cooler and windier than the Mall. Leave food in the car: the monkeys on the paths are bold. Photography rules vary from temple to temple, so ask before taking pictures inside.

Where to stay

For Jwala Devi and Bhadraj, stay at the Library end of Mussoorie or towards Cloud End, which puts you on the western road. For Surkanda Devi and Dhanaulti, the Landour and Kulri side is closer to the Chamba road. Our hotels in Mussoorie page compares the areas with real photos, and if you are coming up for the day from below, hotels in Dehradun are an hour and a half away.